The Roman tavern — the caupona or taberna — was the social space of the working poor and the urban transient, serving wine, hot food, and a place to sit to the vast majority of Rome’s population who had neither the household space for entertaining nor the social standing for the formal dinner party. It was also, in the view of the Roman elite who wrote most of the surviving literature, a place of moral danger: noisy, crowded, frequented by the wrong people, associated with cheap wine, dice games, prostitution, and the general dissolution of Roman values that the upper classes perpetually feared was eroding the foundations of society. The complaints were consistent across centuries and the taverns thrived regardless, which is usually a reliable indicator of genuine social function.

Roman food is one of the most misrepresented topics in popular history. The standard image — wealthy Romans reclining at banquets, eating dormice and vomiting between courses to make room for more — is accurate for a narrow slice of Roman society at a specific moment in imperial history and almost entirely wrong for everyone else. Most Romans ate simply, cheaply, and without couches.

The staple of the Roman diet was grain. Bread and porridge — puls, a thick wheat or spelt mash — were the foundation of what the majority of the population ate every day. Grain was so central to Roman social stability that the state organized its supply directly: the annona, the grain dole, eventually provided free or subsidized grain to several hundred thousand residents of the city of Rome. This was not charity in the modern sense. It was political infrastructure. A city that could not feed its population was a city that would riot, and Rome had learned this lesson repeatedly.